Tips on how to shoot images

[stevescustoms]

I love the finger lights. Just bought a set. I'm really going to like playing with these. What type of batteries do they run on?

[remster_9]

I would love to read more tips on macro photography.

I'm having a very hard time getting the right focus on my pictures (both macro and general). I'm not sure whether it's because I'm not using my camera properly, or if my eyes are not working properly. Maybe I SEE blurry.

I'm also having a hard time getting the right depth of field on my close-ups; I still don't quite understand how the DoF settings work, i.e. why sometimes the center of the picture will be crystal clear and the rest blurry. And other times the center will be blurry and everything else crystal clear. I'm pretty sure I set the focus on the center every time.

[hater06]

macro photography is tricky... the first thing i need to know before rambling on pages and pages is what kind of camera you have.

[Jimster]

I would love to read more tips on macro photography.

I'm having a very hard time getting the right focus on my pictures (both macro and general). I'm not sure whether it's because I'm not using my camera properly, or if my eyes are not working properly. Maybe I SEE blurry.

I'm also having a hard time getting the right depth of field on my close-ups; I still don't quite understand how the DoF settings work, i.e. why sometimes the center of the picture will be crystal clear and the rest blurry. And other times the center will be blurry and everything else crystal clear. I'm pretty sure I set the focus on the center every time.

For your focusing issue, is it that you're not holding the button (shutter release) halfway down and allowing the camera to focus before taking the picture? Most compacts and DSLRs have this feature and the camera usually whirs a bit and then bleeps when it's found the correct focal point. Once it has found focus, depress the button fully for the image to be taken. If you try and focus on something close to the lens you will need to use the macro mode else the camera can't auto focus.

Then, there's also spot metering. Depending on the setting of the camera, it may try and focus on just the centre point of the image, or it could be using multiple points on the image to focus (and getting it horribly wrong).

Depth of field... compacts don't usually let you do much about DoF and this is where a DSLR allows you to get more creative with your shots. You'll find on your camera settings a number preceeded by a f; the f-stop setting. This corresponds to how wide the aperture (hole through the lens) is. For a low f number the aperture will be wide open and letting lots of light through, so you can get away with faster shutter speeds but only objects within a short distance of the focal point will be in focus. This works nicely for portraits where you want the background defocussed so that the subject stands out, but not so great for macro photos were the distances are reduced - you'll find that parts of a model closer or further than the part being focused on will be a bit blurry.

For a high f number (i.e. f32) the aperture hole will be reduced to a small diameter. This lets less light through but you'll find objects closer to or further from the focal point will still be in focus. The issue then is the amount of light needed to be correctly exposed. You either have to increase the ISO number resulting in a grainier image (meh), or increase the exposure time (preferable). The trouble with a long exposure time is that if the subject or the camera moves you'll get motion blur, so it's best to mount the camera on a tripod (or on a stable surface) and use a timer setting of 2 or 10 seconds. This stops you from moving the camera as you depress the shutter - even pressing the button can give you unwelcome motion blur.

Good lighting also helps and good results can be had from a couple of desk lamps (lighting both sides). You may also hear of softboxes - these help to diffuse the light, reducing shadows.

Of course, there are better photographers here that can fill in the bits I've missed out on, correct the bits I've messed up on and do it a whole lot more coherently

[Hotwire]

For your focusing issue, is it that you're not holding the button (shutter release) halfway down and allowing the camera to focus before taking the picture? Most compacts and DSLRs have this feature and the camera usually whirs a bit and then bleeps when it's found the correct focal point. Once it has found focus, depress the button fully for the image to be taken. If you try and focus on something close to the lens you will need to use the macro mode else the camera can't auto focus.

Then, there's also spot metering. Depending on the setting of the camera, it may try and focus on just the centre point of the image, or it could be using multiple points on the image to focus (and getting it horribly wrong).

Depth of field... compacts don't usually let you do much about DoF and this is where a DSLR allows you to get more creative with your shots. You'll find on your camera settings a number preceeded by a f; the f-stop setting. This corresponds to how wide the aperture (hole through the lens) is. For a low f number the aperture will be wide open and letting lots of light through, so you can get away with faster shutter speeds but only objects within a short distance of the focal point will be in focus. This works nicely for portraits where you want the background defocussed so that the subject stands out, but not so great for macro photos were the distances are reduced - you'll find that parts of a model closer or further than the part being focused on will be a bit blurry.

For a high f number (i.e. f32) the aperture hole will be reduced to a small diameter. This lets less light through but you'll find objects closer to or further from the focal point will still be in focus. The issue then is the amount of light needed to be correctly exposed. You either have to increase the ISO number resulting in a grainier image (meh), or increase the exposure time (preferable). The trouble with a long exposure time is that if the subject or the camera moves you'll get motion blur, so it's best to mount the camera on a tripod (or on a stable surface) and use a timer setting of 2 or 10 seconds. This stops you from moving the camera as you depress the shutter - even pressing the button can give you unwelcome motion blur.

Good lighting also helps and good results can be had from a couple of desk lamps (lighting both sides). You may also hear of softboxes - these help to diffuse the light, reducing shadows.

Of course, there are better photographers here that can fill in the bits I've missed out on, correct the bits I've messed up on and do it a whole lot more coherently

Jimster, you nailed everything I was going to say. But, I want to add something else. EDIT! Always, and I mean ALWAYS review your pictures before you post them. If you find you are not getting the results you are wanting, adjust the settings and try again. I cannot stress this enough. I gives me such a headache when I see people post customs that are so poorly photographed, I can't even tell what it is. There is no excuse for this, AT ALL! The best way to find out if a picture is suitable for posting, is show it to someone else. If they see problems, fix them.

Also, be VERY thankful we now live in the digital age, and can see our results instantly. When I first started studying photography, it was on film and you didn't know how your pictures looked until you had them developed. Hell, when I started, 1-hour photo processing wasn't even that big.

Bottom line, practice. Try something, try it again, and again. Eventually you will get more comfortable with everything, and achieve better results. Good luck!

[Jimster]

Yes indeed, good point, Hotwire.

I'd also add that, before you pack up all your kit, check the photos on the computer. Failing that use the review function on your camera to zoom in and check the image sharpness. Although a photo might look good on a 2 inch screen on the back of your camera, it could still be blurry when viewed full-size.

I never upgraded my SLR to digital so do most of my photos on a camera phone or compact at the moment, but as long as you can get the image focused and the lighting is good the pictures don't turn out too bad.

[remster_9]

Thanks guys for your detailed responses!

I'm using a Pentax K100D dSLR. I never use the macro feature as I prefer to work with the Aperture mode. It's true I usually use low f-stop figures though, hence the limited depth of field. I still have to find out what's the best range when I use my macro lens (a Tamron 90mm that opens at F/2.8).

I should also dig out more info about spot metering, and how to use it. That's probably one of the reasons for my focus issues!

[Hotwire]

Thanks guys for your detailed responses!

I'm using a Pentax K100D dSLR. I never use the macro feature as I prefer to work with the Aperture mode. It's true I usually use low f-stop figures though, hence the limited depth of field. I still have to find out what's the best range when I use my macro lens (a Tamron 90mm that opens at F/2.8).

I should also dig out more info about spot metering, and how to use it. That's probably one of the reasons for my focus issues!

The f2.8 should be good, maybe f4. With a good macro mode the sky is the limit. Check out the shot below. My camera's lens is actually touching Prime's bumper!

[hater06]

for me, using a high Fstop (usually f17 and above) with a long shutter speed like 12seconds and above yield the best results at low ISOs...

and above all else, use a tripod or some way of keeping the camera still at all times... if you have a remote for the camera or set it to a timer, thats probably the best.

im shooting a canon 5d mark2 with a 100mm f2.8 macro lens...

[LongHaulCreations]

I will For sure be using this thread.